Yesterday we arrived at Kubu Island, home
to 100's of magical Baobab trees. Magical, not only because they
are aesthetically so outlandish that they are beautiful, but in legend
and reality they are equally mystical. Who could imagine setting
up a complete campsite in the shade of the trunk of only one tree ?
Partly because the young and adult trees differ so greatly, the Bushmen
people believe that the Baobabs crash to earth fully formed, embedding
themselves in the ground, and when they die, they simply disappear. Their
legend has it that their god, Thora, taking a dislike to the tree in paradise,
ripped it out and threw it over the wall, sending it crashing upside down
into the earth way below, hence its name, 'The upside-down tree'.
When the tree dies, it rots from the inside, standing strongly until it
collapses one day in a pile of fibres, little wonder that the Bushmen believe
that it simply disappears.
In life however, the bark fibres are used to make rope, mats, waterproof
hats, baskets and cloth which is why in populated areas baobabs are at
huge risk from debarking, even though they often regenerate the bark. This
tree that can live to 3000 years of age, can be killed by ring-barking
it. The fruits are rich in tartaric acid and vitamin C, making a very refreshing
drink after soaking in water. The leaves can be boiled and eaten
like spinach, and are used medicinally to treat kidney, bladder disease
and asthma.
The trees host complete ecosystems, from the browsers like Elephant who
eats bark and leaves, through to Baboons, Bush Baby's and Fruit bats and
countless scores of insects, lizards and birds. These three animal
classes below were all on the same tree (or rocks it was growing over).
A lone Baobab sentinel stands on look-out across the infinite barren salts
of the Makgadigadi pan. The band of darkness is a little lingering
moisture from the previous summer's rain. Enough moisture for some
damselflies to be found on the island.
This is my favourite view and photo from Kubu. Standing right on
the summit of the island, looking south, surrounded by the calm seas of
salt and dust.
Finally, as the sun began to set, the baobabs, rocks and salt pan took
on this indescribable colour, that, no matter what colour space or temperature
I worked with, I was just unable to capture to my satisfaction. What
a place for that sunset drink !